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STUDY ABROAD: Poland_Market Square


Photo: John Einar Sandvand | 2014

The photos featured in this article are the work of one John Sandvand.

You can find more here: http://sandvand.net/here-is-one-minute-on-krakows-main-market-square/

Or here: http://sandvand.net/krakows-fantastic-market-square-and-how-to-get-rid-of-the-crowd/

Krakow is an amazing place. I’ve been here for just over two months now, and the city is always full of surprises, from incredible church interiors to delightful little courtyards hidden near alleys. However, there are always familiar elements to return to after a day of exploring, or for a routine cup of coffee. Of these key city components, the most well-known – and also one of my favorites – is the main Market Square (Rynek Glówny).

Market Square has a turbulent history. It was constructed in the 1200s, as the city of Krakow began to expand beyond its Medieval defense walls. New streets, and of course a new and larger square, were built, and followed a strict grid, except for one road that runs at an angle and leads to the city’s palace, Wawel Castle. Its main features include a large indoor market, called the Cloth Hall (it was once used for a vibrant cloth trade in the city), Town Hall Tower (Wieża ratuszowa), the Church of St. Adalbert, the Adam Mickiewicz Monument, and St. Mary's Basilica (Kościół Mariacki). A town hall used to share the space as well, but was decomissioned and destroyed at some point, and has not been rebuilt. Even the Cloth Hall has been completely rebuilt. Though originally of the Gohtic style, it was reconstructed in the Renaissance style.

Photo: John Einar Sandvand | 2014

The square is surrounded by a variety of beautiful buildings, most made of brick covered with stucco (kamienica). While they are quite old, they have been renovated and altered many times. Most have adopted a Neo-Classical exterior, made unique by the variety of colors of the facades. Many have large cellars that run under the buildings, and sometimes under the square. Krakow’s streets have risen roughly sixteen feet since it was first constructed, and these cellars were once the ground floors for their buildings. Nowadays they often house bars, unique restaurants, and even museums.

The square itself is an impressive place. In fact, it’s one of the largest Medieval squares in Europe, and has been named by the Project for Public Spaces as the World’s Best Square (2005). Lonely Planet describes the square as the most beautiful in the world (2013); the number of tourists and locals present certainly supports this statement. As with most European cities, you will find horse-drawn carriages with elaborately-harnessed horses, an unrealistically large pigeon population, multiple stores selling gelato on every street, and more expensive cameras and sunburned tourists than you can count.

Photo: John Einar Sandvand | 2014

Restaurants encircle the main square, separated from the plaza by a road populated exclusively by carriages, except in the early morning hours by delivery trucks delivering their wares. Tour groups wander, often stopping and examining particular elements. Locals pass through, occasionally stopping to browse the many stalls in the Cloth Hall. Tourists talk and point as they pass. It’s certainly an experience to grab a seat on a bench, or a coffee at a café, and watch the square’s activities as the day progresses.

At certain times, like the recent Constitution Day, a large temporary market is constructed and filled with (often handmade) Polish goods. The walkways get crowded, as people flock to see all that the temporary market has to offer. Of course, afterwards they visit the permanent Cloth Market, and enjoy all Market Square has to offer.

Photo: John Einar Sandvand | 2014

Allison’s Recommendations for Market Square:

  • Visit the Cloth Market – it’s huge, and its permanent stalls are full of incredible handmade things, as well as souvenirs, often at a lower price than nearby shops.

  • Get gelato at least once. It’s quite popular, and it I’ve noticed that practically every tourist walks around and eats ice cream at least once while visiting.

  • Attend Mass in St. Mary’s Basilica – it’s the only way to get inside the church, although the service is typically in Polish (English services are scheduled).

  • Sit at a nearby restaurant or café and people watch while enjoying a meal or coffee.

  • Take a carriage ride. Most cities have them, but everything is cheaper in Poland, which makes it a great place to splurge on a fun ride.

  • Enjoy yourself. The ambiance and environment is fantastic, and lots of fun.

Photo: John Einar Sandvand | 2014
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